Baintha Brakk

Baintha Brakk

Infobox Mountain
Name = Baintha Brakk
Photo = Baintha Camp Near Snow Lake.jpg
Caption = Baintha Camp near Snow Lake
Elevation = convert|7285|m|ft|0|lk=on
Location = Pakistan This region is disputed, and is claimed by India to be an integral part of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. ]
Range = Panmah Muztagh, Karakoram
Prominence = 1,891 m (6,204 ft) [http://www.peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/karakoram.html Karakoram ultra-prominent peaks] on peaklist.org]
Coordinates = coord|35|56|52|N|75|45|13|E|region:PK_type:mountain|display=inline,title
First ascent = July 13, 1977 by Doug Scott and Chris Bonington
Easiest route = snow/ice climb
Listing = Ultra

Baintha Brakk or The Ogre is a steep, craggy mountain, convert|7285|m|ft|0|lk=on high, in the Panmah Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountain range. It is located in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. It is famous for being one of the hardest peaks in the world to climb: twenty-four years elapsed between the first ascent in 1977 and the second in 2001.__NOTOC__

Location

Baintha Brakk rises above the north side of the Biafo Glacier, one of the major glaciers of the central Karakoram. It lies about convert|75|km|mi|0|lk=on north of Skardu, the major town of the region, and about convert|30|km|mi|0 north of the roadhead at Askole."Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram" by Jerzy Wala, 1990. Published by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.]

Notable features

Baintha Brakk is exceptional in its combination of altitude, height above local terrain, and steepness. It is a complex granite tower, steeper and rockier than most other Karakoram peaks. (The Latok peaks next to Baintha Brakk are similar, however.) For example, its South Face rises over convert|3000|m|ft|-2 above the Uzun Brakk Glacier in only convert|2|km|mi|0 of horizontal distance. [http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org/dem3.html#himalayas DEM files for the Himalaya/Karakoram] (Corrected versions of SRTM data)]

It is because of this steep, rocky nature that Baintha Brakk has been both so difficult to climb and so attractive a target for extremely high-level mountaineers.

Climbing history

Following two unsuccessful attempts in 1971 and 1976, the peak was first climbed by two Britons, Doug Scott and Chris Bonington, in 1977. (The other members of the party were Mo Anthoine, Clive Rowland, Nick Estcourt, and Tut Braithwaite. Estcourt, Anthoine, and Rowland all reached the lower West Summit, while Braithwaite was injured early on by rockfall.Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, "Himalaya Alpine-Style", Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, ISBN 0-340-64931-3.] ) They climbed via the Southwest Spur to the West Ridge, and over the West Summit to the Main Summit. The ascent of the summit block required difficult rock climbing that extended the boundaries of what had been done at over convert|7000|m|ft|-2.

The descent was an epic: On the first rappel from the summit, Scott broke both legs.Later, Bonington broke two ribs and contracted pneumonia. Also, much of the week-long descent to base camp was in a major storm. However, they were all able to reach base camp, where they had a long wait for assistance.

The second ascent of Baintha Brakk was made by Urs Stöcker, Iwan Wolf, and Thomas Huber, on 21 July 2001, via the South Pillar route, following their first ascent of the subsidiary peak Ogre III (circa convert|6800|m|ft|-2)."American Alpine Journal", 2001, p. 365] They note that there were more than 20 unsuccessful expeditions in the interim.The [http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/index.htm Himalayan Index] lists only ten unsuccessful attempts; however the index is often incomplete. Its entry for the Ogre also mistakenly lists the second ascent as occurring in 2000.] Mountain INFO magazine characterized their ascent as "arguably the most notable mountaineering achievement during the entire 2001 season.""American Alpine Journal", 2001, p. 366]

See also

* List of mountains in Pakistan

References

* Jill Neate, "High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks", ISBN 0-89886-238-8.

External links

* [http://www.peakware.com/peaks.html?pk=197 Peakware World Mountaineering Encyclopedia]


Wikimedia Foundation. 2010.

Игры ⚽ Поможем решить контрольную работу

Look at other dictionaries:

  • Baintha Brakk — Ogre Ogre (Mitte), S Seite von Baintha über dem Uzun Brakk Gletscher Höhe 7 …   Deutsch Wikipedia

  • Uzun Brakk — Bild gesucht  BWf1 Höhe 6.422  …   Deutsch Wikipedia

  • Panmah Muztagh — p1p5 Panmah Muztagh Latok Gruppe (Mitte links) und der Baintha Brakk (ganz links) Höchster Gipfel Baintha Brakk ( …   Deutsch Wikipedia

  • Ogre (Berg) — Ogre Ogre (Mitte), S Seite von Baintha über dem Uzun Brakk Gletscher Höhe …   Deutsch Wikipedia

  • Panmah Muztagh — Saltar a navegación, búsqueda Panmah Muztagh sobre el Glaciar Biafo: Grupo Latok (centro izquierda) y el del Ogre (más a la izquierda) La Panmah Muztagh es un subcordillera del Karakórum, en el Baltistán, un distrito de los Territorios del Norte… …   Wikipedia Español

  • Западный Каракорум, таблица вершин — К Западному Каракоруму отнесится западная часть горной системы Каракорум, ограниченная с востока меридианально ориентированными ледниками Бральду (на севере) и Панмах (на юге). При таком определении в Западный Каракорум автоматически и полностью… …   Энциклопедия туриста

  • Байнта-Брак — Baintha Brakk Вид на Огре и Южный палец с ледника Биафо …   Википедия

  • Байнта Брак — Baintha Brakk …   Википедия

  • List of climbers — This list of climbers includes both mountaineers and rock climbers, since many (though not all) climbers engage in both types of activities. The list also includes boulderers and ice climbers.compactTOC NOTOC A * Vitaly Mikhaylovich Abalakov… …   Wikipedia

  • Thomas Huber — (born 18 November 1966 in Palling, Bavaria), is a German climber and mountaineer. He lives in Berchtesgaden with his family.When they were still young Thomas Huber and his two siblings were taken into the mountains by their father, himself a… …   Wikipedia

Share the article and excerpts

Direct link
Do a right-click on the link above
and select “Copy Link”